HOT, HOT, HOT…AND A BIT OF RAIN AT BADWATER

HOT, HOT, HOT…AND A BIT OF RAIN AT BADWATER

Kate Dzienis • December 12, 2018

Contributed by Jason West, AURA member

10.30pm. 23 July 2018. Badwater Basin, Death Valley, California.

Gee, it’s hot.

We agreed as a team to never state the bleeding obvious, because it was going to be a long night. And day. And night.

When I stepped out of the car I couldn’t believe the oppressive heat radiating from all directions. Up, down and sideways. I knew Death Valley was hot in the middle of the day, but it’s almost midnight and the air temp is nudging 50 degrees C. My first thought was “I’m not sure I can make it through the first 17 miles to Furnace Creek, let alone the rest of it.”

I had no real plan to combat the heat. I didn’t know what to expect. I thought perhaps some ice cubes in my hat every now and then, and ice filled water bottles might help. But neither did. I grabbed a Buff, rolled it over itself, stuck a few ice cubes in and wrapped it around my neck. The melting water dripped down my shirt cooled me to an almost normal level almost immediately. Ok that’s sorted. Now we could think about the race while standing on a salt plain 300 feet below sea level.

I had a pre-race chat with Grant Maughan, arguably the hardest of the hard. Grant had run Vol State, a 500+ km ultra across Tennessee the week before, winning it in three days just so he could drive across the country to California, buy a couple of bags of ice, have a quick leg stretch and then run Badwater 135 for a sixth time. This is on top of scaling Everest in May. Safe to say he knows the course well and when he offers advice, I’m the type of guy who will take it. He said to keep running until I hit the T-intersection at Lone Pine. Then turn right. Then left. Then stop…you’re done. For once, I get to run a race where it is almost impossible to get lost.

The first 50 miles was surprisingly benign. Tried not to breath. Had a headlight, but race director Chris Kostman schedules each race with the full moon in July, so most of us ran purely by its guiding light. Surrounded by the barren desert, it was like running on Mars, the road ahead dotted with the flashing lights of other runners.

For the next 40 miles I caught up to most who started hours prior in the first two waves. The novelty of passing some of the legends of ultra running was something to savour. Passed Marshall Ulrich, former winner and 20-time finisher, replete with no toenails. Said hi. He said hi back. That felt great, to compete with a real pioneer of distance running. Ed Ettinghausen, the Jester, was moving along well when I passed by at around mile 35. Each three miles when he gets to his crew, he takes off the jester hat and throws it into a bucket. Three yards further he receives a replenished drink bottle. Five yards after that picks up another jester hat from an ice bucket and sticks it on his head. Slick.

My team was not so slick…at the start anyway. They humoured me with bad jokes and tempted me with an assortment of fruit, candy and cake for the first few hours, none of which would have stayed down. Best to stick with liquids for the first part…just in case.

The rest of the night was interesting. There were a few vomiters, a few with that thousand-yard stare normally reserved for the latter part of a hundred-miler and a lot of walkers, many feeling the pinch of the endless heat. The heat remained near 50 degrees for so, so long. As the temperature finally receded before dawn, we started the 16-mile climb from Stovepipe Wells to Townes Pass.

A good third of the race is uphill, along frustrating grades that prevents all but the great runners from pushing up them as you normally would. Keeping my heart rate under control was key to survival. So, the vague plan was to run as much of the flat and downhill as possible, knowing that we would all be slogging it slowly up the endless mountain roads. But ‘plan’ is a strong word…usually I just start running and hope for the best.

Passed by fellow Aussie, the indefatigable Katy Anderson halfway up the first mountain. She was looking fresh, sitting on a giant esky sipping a cold one in the shade of her giant van. Talk about well prepared. After making it to the summit, I ran down into the next heat test known as Panamint Valley. The three fastest women on the course promptly overtook me, all looking very focused. There was no way I was going to match it with them at this stage.

I then arrived at Panamint Springs…feet were trashed. They are usually sore after 70 miles but this was something else. My father, crew chief, got in touch with the aid team, consisting of, among others, an Australian nurse and a podiatrist, both helping with the race. By pure fluke we found them in a cabin out the back of the restaurant. I laid down on a couch, offered my feet skywards and they busily got to work. I tried to take advantage of the air-conditioning working at full tilt which reduced the temperature to the low 30s rather than the 50+ outside. But after the scalpel, scissors, and needles came out to start cutting at my feet I was feeling quite upset. And I let them know it, cursing included. They told me to suck it up, which I duly did. Don’t be such a sook.

My father was watching all this, and he thought that it’s all over. He walked out to the crew to tell them it’s unlikely I would be back out there. Five minutes later I walked out with a change of socks, shoes, feet still a little tender, but all ready to go. Up the next mountain, to Father Crowley. Steep-ish grade, with the temperature rising the higher we got. At 4000ft bent over in a carpark trying to get my heartrate under control, the temperature exceeded 55 degrees. Surely it can’t get any hotter and thankfully it didn’t.

We took off towards the 92-mile checkpoint, over undulating hills which climb another 1000ft, and it started raining. It rained on us for half an hour, which pushed the temperature into the 40s for the first time for many hours, a welcome relief. I was in reasonable spirits knowing there was 30 miles of gentle downward grades and only one monster hill beyond that. US Air Force jets buzzed the road for the next hour adding extra relief from the inevitable soreness, all over.

Ran though Lone Pine near 3am. This town turns into a monster truck derby in the small hours, seemingly hundreds roaring through town before the tourist traffic begins. I was not feeling well at this point.

I chugged some blue Gatorade while standing near the exhaust of our crew car. The combination of its unnatural flavour, exhaust fumes and 120 miles of exhaustion had the immediate effect of summoning a projectile vomit. I performed this behind a giant pot plant.

Good thing the residents were asleep because it wasn’t pretty. Amazingly, after that I felt great. Grabbed a stroopwaffle from the crew and started a slow jog towards the final hill, where I quickly caught up with a Hungarian runner.

I have never seen the sun come up twice during an ultra before and wanted to maintain that record. My father paced with me for a mile halfway up the final 13 miles. He then rejoined me for the final mile to the finish. His looming seventieth birthday and knowing that the sun was going to come up for a third time without having slept didn’t dampen his energy.

Met up with the rest of the crew and ran across the finish line, 10 minutes before the sun peered over the horizon. The remaining crew consisting of Andrew from Texas and Edward from Florida travelled away from their families for several days to help me through this. Luckily for me, such generosity exists in only a few select sports, one of them being ultra-running. We cheered ourselves over the finish, 31 hours after the previous night’s start. I went off to be sick, they went and had breakfast.

After a day and a half spent enduring discomforting heat we retreated to Lone Pine for a beer and a long session in the motel’s hot tub. Yes, they have a hot tub. What a place.

Pictured (feature): The desolation of Panamint Valley looking back toward the oncoming runners at midday.
Pictured (middle): Badwater Basin start line and Jason West’s crew of Andrew (Texas), Colin (the old man), Jason and Edward (Florida). 

Pictured (bottom): Jason West consumed over one litre of liquids every hour and had to pee only once in 31 hours.
Photographs – Supplied.

By Kate Dzienis February 19, 2025
The latest in race results, covering Cradle Mountain Run, City Run, Oscars 100 Hut 2 Hut and Yaberoo Trail Ultra.
By Alexis Oosterhoff January 30, 2025
Results for the 2024 AUTRA Points Competition have been finalised, and are available on our Points Competition page. Full details of the top 10 (as shared on Facebook during January) are detailed below, and results for all participating AUTRA members can be found in the documents at the above link. It was a real battle throughout the year between our top two finishers, Phil Gore & Kevin "BK" Matthews, with both giving it their it their all at events, and through contributions to the community - volunteering at multiple events, and submitting articles to our monthly newsletter, Ultramag. They finished within 2km of total distance for the year (Phil on 1203.087km, and Kevin on 1205.510km), and it was only Phil's final volunteering effort on 6 Inch Trail Marathon in December that gave him the that very narrow victory. As you'd be aware from previous communications, this marks the end of the Points Competition. With trail running (of all distances) now incorporated into AU T RA's constitution, and after careful consideration of the costs of the competition payouts in it's current form, the committee felt it was time for it's retirement. This marks my seventh and final year of delivering the points competition to membership (2018-2024), after taking on the role from Cheryl Symons. It has brought me great joy in doing so, and I feel like I've had an opportunity to get to know so many of our members through seeing their race (and volunteering) performances over the years! I'm continuing in my role as the AUS/NZL statistician for DUV (from whom we shared the data for the points comp), and you can expect to continue to find your ultra-race result on their site. 1st Place - Phil Gore (WA) - 86 points Phil's achievements this year have included a massive 265.653km (and 2nd place) at the IAU 24h Asia & Oceania Championships, wins at the Red Dirt Backyard Ultra (33 laps), the Australian leg of Big Dog's Backyard World Team Championship (96 laps), and the Soochow/Taipei 24h Ultramarathon (270.826km). He also knocked out an easy (!) 72km at the Light Horse Ultra 24h in between supporting his amazing wife Gemma. Those two 24h wins netted Phil new Oceania 24h Open Male records, IAU Level 1 qualifiers, and pushed him to the top of Australia's 24h trophy board (with only the great Yiannis Kouros having run further). Phil topped-up his points by contributing one article to Ultramag, worked as an Event Director at Herdy's Frontyard Ultra, and volunteered at a further five events through the year. He finished on 86 points. 2nd Place - Kevin Matthews (WA) - 84 points Finishing in 2nd place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Kevin Matthews. He monstered his way through the year with finishes at Australia Day Ultra 100km, Delirious WEST 200mi, 24 laps at Herdy's Frontyard Ultra, 190km at Light Horse Ultra 24h, 23 laps at Birdy's Backyard Ultra, and also completed Feral Pig 100 miler, Sandman 50km and Six Inch 47km. And to top things off, he contributed five articles to Ultramag, and volunteered at five events. BK ran 1205km in Ultramarathon races this year, all of them AUTRA-listed, and surpassed 100 marathon finishes (including 51 Ultramarathons!) Kevin finished the year on 84 points, a massive 34 points ahead of our 3rd place finisher Sue Robertson. 3rd Place - Sue Robertson (WA) - 50 points Finishing in 3rd place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Sue Robertson. Sue completed the Ultra Series 100 miler trilogy of Delirious WEST, Irrational SOUTH and Unreasonable EAST, and rounded out her year with the Sandman 50km and Six Inch 47km races. She received 30 points from the racing at AUTRA-listed events, and was awarded a further 20 points by volunteering across eight events and contributing two articles to Ultramag, for a total of 50 points for the year. Thank you Sue! 4th Place - Margie Hadley (WA) - 47 points Finishing in 4th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Margie Hadley . She was the top-female finisher at both the No Time to Die Frontyard Ultra & Wild Dog Backyard Ultra, 2nd at Birdy's Backyard Ultra, ran 182km at the Australian 24h Track Invitational and placed 3rd at Coast to Kosci. Margie received 47 points in the competition 5th Place - Melissa Robertson (NSW) - 44 points Finishing in 5th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is NSW's Melissa Robertson. Melissa took out 1st place at Irrational SOUTH 200 miler, 2nd place at Lakes Trail Festival 100km, 1st place at Hume & Hovell 100 miler, 3rd place at Rumble in the Jungle and 6th place at Ultra-Trail Kosciuszko 100 miler! She also volunteered at the GNW 50km event, receiving 44 points in the competition! 6th Place - Aaron Young (WA) - 42 points Finishing in 6th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Aaron Young . Aaron finished in 1st place at each of the Ultra Series "Triple Crown" of 200 milers (Delirious WEST, Irrational SOUTH and Unreasonable EAST), 55 laps at Big Dog's Backyard World Team Championship, and rounded his year out with Feral Pig 100 miler. Aaron receives 42 points, just nudging ahead of Maree Connor (who also finished on 42 points) on a count-back 7th Place - Maree Connor (NSW) - 42 points Finishing in 7th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is NSW's Maree Connor. Maree had an outstanding year, achieving 2nd place with 221km (and an IAU Level 1 qualifier) at the IAU 24th Asian and Oceania Championships, 1st place at the Lakes Trail Festival 100km, 1st place with 67km at the Southern Sydney 6h race, and 1st place with 116km at the Narrabeen Allnighter 12h. Maree also competed at Spartathlon race this year (for which she contributed an article to the September Ultramag on her experience), receiving 42 points in the competition. 8th Place - Darren Linney (SA) - 41 points Finishing in 8th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is SA's Darren Linney . Darren completed 34 laps at No Time to Die BYU, 199km at the Adelaide 24h race, and 814km at the Australian 6 Day race, for a total of 1241km raced and 41 points . 9th Place - Tristan Cameron (WA) - 40 points Finishing in 9th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Tristan Cameron. Tristan completed the Ultra Series Triple Crown of 200 mile races (Delirious WEST, Irrational SOUTH and Unreasonable EAST), along with Feral Pig 100 miler, for a total of 1154km raced and 40 points. 10th Place - Jen Millum (WA) - 39 points Finishing in 10th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Jen Millum . Jen finished 1st at all three of the Ultra Series Trilogy of 100 milers (Delirious WEST, Irrational SOUTH and Unreasonable EAST), and was 2nd female with 35 laps at the Wild Dog Backyard Ultra. With a volunteer stint at the Yaberoo Trail Ultra, Jen finished the year with 39 points in the competition.  To view the complete list of members who secured points in 2024 click here and then follow through to Points Summary under the 2024 tab. All winners have already been contacted, with cash prizes distributed for 1st - 7th places, and AUTRA Store vouchers sent for 8th, 9th & 10th.
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IN OTHER NEWS

By Kate Dzienis February 19, 2025
The latest in race results, covering Cradle Mountain Run, City Run, Oscars 100 Hut 2 Hut and Yaberoo Trail Ultra.
By Alexis Oosterhoff January 30, 2025
Results for the 2024 AUTRA Points Competition have been finalised, and are available on our Points Competition page. Full details of the top 10 (as shared on Facebook during January) are detailed below, and results for all participating AUTRA members can be found in the documents at the above link. It was a real battle throughout the year between our top two finishers, Phil Gore & Kevin "BK" Matthews, with both giving it their it their all at events, and through contributions to the community - volunteering at multiple events, and submitting articles to our monthly newsletter, Ultramag. They finished within 2km of total distance for the year (Phil on 1203.087km, and Kevin on 1205.510km), and it was only Phil's final volunteering effort on 6 Inch Trail Marathon in December that gave him the that very narrow victory. As you'd be aware from previous communications, this marks the end of the Points Competition. With trail running (of all distances) now incorporated into AU T RA's constitution, and after careful consideration of the costs of the competition payouts in it's current form, the committee felt it was time for it's retirement. This marks my seventh and final year of delivering the points competition to membership (2018-2024), after taking on the role from Cheryl Symons. It has brought me great joy in doing so, and I feel like I've had an opportunity to get to know so many of our members through seeing their race (and volunteering) performances over the years! I'm continuing in my role as the AUS/NZL statistician for DUV (from whom we shared the data for the points comp), and you can expect to continue to find your ultra-race result on their site. 1st Place - Phil Gore (WA) - 86 points Phil's achievements this year have included a massive 265.653km (and 2nd place) at the IAU 24h Asia & Oceania Championships, wins at the Red Dirt Backyard Ultra (33 laps), the Australian leg of Big Dog's Backyard World Team Championship (96 laps), and the Soochow/Taipei 24h Ultramarathon (270.826km). He also knocked out an easy (!) 72km at the Light Horse Ultra 24h in between supporting his amazing wife Gemma. Those two 24h wins netted Phil new Oceania 24h Open Male records, IAU Level 1 qualifiers, and pushed him to the top of Australia's 24h trophy board (with only the great Yiannis Kouros having run further). Phil topped-up his points by contributing one article to Ultramag, worked as an Event Director at Herdy's Frontyard Ultra, and volunteered at a further five events through the year. He finished on 86 points. 2nd Place - Kevin Matthews (WA) - 84 points Finishing in 2nd place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Kevin Matthews. He monstered his way through the year with finishes at Australia Day Ultra 100km, Delirious WEST 200mi, 24 laps at Herdy's Frontyard Ultra, 190km at Light Horse Ultra 24h, 23 laps at Birdy's Backyard Ultra, and also completed Feral Pig 100 miler, Sandman 50km and Six Inch 47km. And to top things off, he contributed five articles to Ultramag, and volunteered at five events. BK ran 1205km in Ultramarathon races this year, all of them AUTRA-listed, and surpassed 100 marathon finishes (including 51 Ultramarathons!) Kevin finished the year on 84 points, a massive 34 points ahead of our 3rd place finisher Sue Robertson. 3rd Place - Sue Robertson (WA) - 50 points Finishing in 3rd place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Sue Robertson. Sue completed the Ultra Series 100 miler trilogy of Delirious WEST, Irrational SOUTH and Unreasonable EAST, and rounded out her year with the Sandman 50km and Six Inch 47km races. She received 30 points from the racing at AUTRA-listed events, and was awarded a further 20 points by volunteering across eight events and contributing two articles to Ultramag, for a total of 50 points for the year. Thank you Sue! 4th Place - Margie Hadley (WA) - 47 points Finishing in 4th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Margie Hadley . She was the top-female finisher at both the No Time to Die Frontyard Ultra & Wild Dog Backyard Ultra, 2nd at Birdy's Backyard Ultra, ran 182km at the Australian 24h Track Invitational and placed 3rd at Coast to Kosci. Margie received 47 points in the competition 5th Place - Melissa Robertson (NSW) - 44 points Finishing in 5th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is NSW's Melissa Robertson. Melissa took out 1st place at Irrational SOUTH 200 miler, 2nd place at Lakes Trail Festival 100km, 1st place at Hume & Hovell 100 miler, 3rd place at Rumble in the Jungle and 6th place at Ultra-Trail Kosciuszko 100 miler! She also volunteered at the GNW 50km event, receiving 44 points in the competition! 6th Place - Aaron Young (WA) - 42 points Finishing in 6th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Aaron Young . Aaron finished in 1st place at each of the Ultra Series "Triple Crown" of 200 milers (Delirious WEST, Irrational SOUTH and Unreasonable EAST), 55 laps at Big Dog's Backyard World Team Championship, and rounded his year out with Feral Pig 100 miler. Aaron receives 42 points, just nudging ahead of Maree Connor (who also finished on 42 points) on a count-back 7th Place - Maree Connor (NSW) - 42 points Finishing in 7th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is NSW's Maree Connor. Maree had an outstanding year, achieving 2nd place with 221km (and an IAU Level 1 qualifier) at the IAU 24th Asian and Oceania Championships, 1st place at the Lakes Trail Festival 100km, 1st place with 67km at the Southern Sydney 6h race, and 1st place with 116km at the Narrabeen Allnighter 12h. Maree also competed at Spartathlon race this year (for which she contributed an article to the September Ultramag on her experience), receiving 42 points in the competition. 8th Place - Darren Linney (SA) - 41 points Finishing in 8th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is SA's Darren Linney . Darren completed 34 laps at No Time to Die BYU, 199km at the Adelaide 24h race, and 814km at the Australian 6 Day race, for a total of 1241km raced and 41 points . 9th Place - Tristan Cameron (WA) - 40 points Finishing in 9th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Tristan Cameron. Tristan completed the Ultra Series Triple Crown of 200 mile races (Delirious WEST, Irrational SOUTH and Unreasonable EAST), along with Feral Pig 100 miler, for a total of 1154km raced and 40 points. 10th Place - Jen Millum (WA) - 39 points Finishing in 10th place in the AUTRA 2024 Points Competition is WA's Jen Millum . Jen finished 1st at all three of the Ultra Series Trilogy of 100 milers (Delirious WEST, Irrational SOUTH and Unreasonable EAST), and was 2nd female with 35 laps at the Wild Dog Backyard Ultra. With a volunteer stint at the Yaberoo Trail Ultra, Jen finished the year with 39 points in the competition.  To view the complete list of members who secured points in 2024 click here and then follow through to Points Summary under the 2024 tab. All winners have already been contacted, with cash prizes distributed for 1st - 7th places, and AUTRA Store vouchers sent for 8th, 9th & 10th.
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